| DIOR HOMME那梦魇般哀艳青涩颓废少年已成绝唱,接任的Kris Van Assche设计不再少年,改较man较阳光大路的设计,款式不再诅咒似的窄了……DIOR HOMME何故换血,Hedi Slimane因何离开? |
Hedi Slimane与Sidney Toledano
在刚出刊不久的The New York Times Style Magazine (Men`s Fashion Fall 2007) 这期杂志中,当家服装主编Cathy Horyn在Man of the House一文中,独家专访DIOR的执行总裁Sidney Toledano。
现年56岁的Sidney Toledano,说他是DIOR的幕后狠角色绝不为过,因为他得满足DIOR旗下三大设计师John Galliano,Victoire de Castellane,及Hedi Slimane各种不同的需求;也得应付LVMH集团大老板Bernard Arnault的商业需求。此外,他也协助管理FENDI,这也意味著他也得与Karl Largefeld打交道。这几个人各个都是时尚界的重量级人物,要同时与他们共事,想必不是件简单的差事。
文中除了提及Sidney Toledano与John Galliano的有趣互动,最引人注目的就是DIOR与Hedi Slimane的交涉过程内幕。Hedi Slimane鲜明的个人风格与设计才华,几乎与DIOR HOMME成为同义词。Hedi Slimane这样的不可取代性,也成为他与DIOR谈判的重要筹码。
就如同外界揣测,Hedi Slimane自己也在访问中提到,他想要成立自己的品牌,并跨足女装设计。其实这也不是不可能的事情,John Galliano不就也成立个人品牌,跨足男装设计。
所以问题就出在,Hedi Slimane开出的条件太过严苛,让出钱的老板Bernard Arnault拒绝配合,居中协调的Sidney Toledano形容这段期间的协商简直就是噩梦一场。
倒底是怎么协商的呢?
Sidney Toledano的版本是:
He (Sidney Toledano) says Slimane wanted to control every aspect of his proposed label, even the choice of receptionist. “I tried to explain to him that I could not give him more control than I had myself.”
Bernard Arnault的版本是:
“I (Bernard Arnault) told Hedi that if I put some money into his brand — and it takes a lot of money to start a brand today — then I wanted a share of the action. I did this with Marc Jacobs and with John galliano. And Hedi said, ‘No, give me the money and you get nothing.’ ” Arnault paused, smiling. “I said, ‘Hedi, you’ve got to come back to reality.’ ”
Hedi Slimane的版本是:
Slimane could not be reached for comment.
其实从这些段访谈来看,Hedi Slimane被描绘成任性不讲理,且有严重大头症的一个人。既然Hedi Slimane至今仍未出来澄清,也只能先片面听取这份版本的破局内幕。
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